Posts Tagged 'Sailing'

Encounters with Patagonian Fisherman

Fishing family aboard Don Jason II aproach Agartha for a chat in Chile's Reloncaví estuary. Volcano Mt Yates rises 2111m directly above sea level in the background. Canon 5D Mark II camera and Canon 24-105mm f4L IS USM lens. Exposure Details: 1/320 seconds @ f9 ISO 400

Here’s another quick post from northern Patagonia. This time from the Reloncaví estuary which sits directly south-east of Puerto Montt in the the lakes district of Chile. It is a stunningly beautiful landscape dominated by ice capped volcanoes, sheer granite cliffs, impenetrable four thousand year old rainforests and an almost entire lack of roads. Travelling by sail allowed us to visit places and meet people that we would just never have encountered trying to explore the region by land. Like many in the region this family depends on the sea for a living, their small hand-built home sits perched on an isolated strip of land beneath a steep haulking mountain thickly clad with temperate rainforest. No road reaches the small subsistence farm upon which they live, rather a small natural pebble beach serves as their ‘driveway’. They supplement their diets with vegetables grown on their plot and home raised lamb, chicken, beef – that is when the pumas don’t descend from the national park above and steal their feed! For electricity the family has recently invested in a small water-turbine that harvests the energy of a nearby cascade, of which there seems to be an inumerable number due to the steepness of the terrain, the permanent ice caps towering above and plentiful precipitation. This photo captures a brief meeting of our vessels Don Jason II and Agartha for a chat in late January.

Hope you enjoy the photo, don’t forget to leave a comment and more coming soon!

A full sail in the Whitsunday Islands

38 foot Sloop 'Ariel' in full sail in the Whitsunday Islands, Queensland, Australia. Nikon D80 camera and Nikon 24-120mm f3.5 VR lens. Exposure Details: 1/400 second @ f10 ISO 200.

Quick Update & New Format

As mentioned in my last post I’ll be going back to some of my photography work from late last year and my 3 months in New Caledonia for the next few posts. I’m currently dealing with not so blog-worthy business stuff but have some new projects on the horizon that I should begin blogging in a month or so. I’m also going to try a new format here where I separate the story that the photo is a part of from the story of how I made the photo. My aim is to make the blog a bit easier to navigate so that people can just enjoy the photo and read the story behind it without having to wade through all the details of how I took the photo. As for my fellow photo-nerds now we have a dedicated section for that with its very own sub-heading! As always you can let me know what you think by posting a comment.

A Rare Awakening

After sailing all night by starlight and a 3 hour shift break in the mid morning, Julie and I are awoken by something out of the ordinary. Asides from the usual sounds of sailing -the rush of sea water against the hull, the occasional flap of the sail and the general creaking from everywhere in the wooden mass of the ship- something else is going on. Rubbing our eyes and sitting up in our cramped sleeping quarter we realise that we can’t just hear this sound, we can feel it. In fact the whole hull is vibrating to it. As slowly as we’d woken it dawned on us that what we were listening to was in fact whale songs. It also soon became clear that there were two distinct cries, one of a mature deep tone and the other of a beseeching higher pitched tone that ended with an upwards inflexion. We were sitting spellbound inside a vessel literally humming the duet of a mother whale and her calf. Clambering up on deck I ask Joe and Jeanette ‘you guys hear that?’ to which they replied with blank stares. ‘Have you seen any whales?’ I further ‘…because I’m pretty sure we can hear whale songs vibrating through the hull below deck’. Seconds later, a loud burst of air captures our attention and not more than 30 metres directly behind the yacht a large adult humpback whale surfaces for air. We are all frozen for a moment awestruck by the creature. It dwarfed our boat. Suddenly the salty tales we’d been hearing in run-down yacht clubs and remote anchorages all up the coast made sense. Close whale encounters are scary and the giants could no doubt send us to the bottom of the ocean with ease if they felt the slightest inclination. Luckily such is their benevolence that it rarely happens, although I’m told a fair amount of ships do come to grief by running into sleeping whales. Luckily it was only our fate to feel their songs through the hull and not an almighty whip of its tail with a one way ticket to deep end of the pool.

The experience of being awoken by whales was one of many highlights of a 5-week sailing voyage that myself and some friends (Joseph Shaw and Julie Rerolle) were lucky enough to participate in late last year. Like most of the best moments in life, it was an experience I have to keep my head, it couldn’t be photographed. I did get some fleeting photos of whales, but sadly they just don’t cut the mustard for a photography blog. Instead I’ve placed this photo of our ship in full sail in the Whitsunday Islands because it encapsulates our voyage. Other highlights from our trip included dolphin and dugong sightings, snorkelling tropical reef with turtles and giant fish, jumping from the ratlines, learning to sail, navigating by the stars, exploring remote islands and of course a few bouts of gut churning sea-sickness.  The captain of the ship was Jeanette Tansley. Each year Jeanette, a nomad of the sea, migrates up and down the Queensland coast between her home anchorages of Southport and Airlie Beach, which sits on the mainland opposite the famous Whitsunday Islands. Jeanette makes her journey onboard her floating home ‘Ariel’, a Down Easter 38 cutter rigged sloop, built in California in 1979. The 600-nautical mile (1100 km) journey passes through remote areas of coastline filled equally with unexpected dangers and stunning natural beauty. The often long stretches between safe anchorages require expert navigation for which Jeanette is ably equipped after 10 years of living at sea. We were lucky enough to be invited aboard to crew for the northern passage of Jeanette’s annual migration. To view more shots from our voyage check out the gallery on my website and you can browse our route in the map below.


View Larger Map

Getting the Shot

Sadly despite several more whale sightings after the one related above, they were so fleeting and randomly timed that I was not able to snap any great shots. I did get some shots, but in my opinion they don’t quite cut the mustard to appear on a photo blog so I haven’t included any here. Instead I’ve placed this photo of our ship in full sail in the Whitsunday Islands because it encapsulates our voyage and because it was actually quite an adventure to get.

I took this photo on the second last day of our trip, while making a final cruise from Airlie beach to Hayman island. I was acutely aware that I had so far failed to actually get any shots of Ariel in full sail, from away from the boat. This was largely because to do so takes a lot of effort! The easiest way to do it would be to climb aboard another vessel and go for a cruise together, however, we almost never had such an opportunity. Instead we had to lower our small inflatable dinghy with its pitiful 4 horse-power outboard motor and attempt to direct the yacht to make a few passes. If  for any reason our friends had abandoned us we would have run out of fuel long before we got to the nearest island (Whitsunday island, pictured in the background) and due to a mishap earlier in the voyage we were down to only one and a half oars on the dinghy, meaning paddling would have been a difficult excercise. It was quite a tight operation because there was only one patch of blue sky so I needed a fairly precise angle. What’s more, controlling the distance between the yacht and us was for the most part impossible due to the vagaries of the wind, our pathetic horse-power and difficulty in communicating (radios would have been nice!). Also, much like the issues of horseback photography in my last post, you have to be aware when sailing that you are constantly on a moving vessel, meaning you need to prioritise your shutter speed more than usual. You also have to prioritise your gear from the devastating effects of sea-spray too, something my gear managed to survive ok, despite 5 weeks  at sea. Thankfully we pulled it off due to the combined effort of Julie and Jeanette who worked the sails while Joe worked like a champ with the outboard on our tiny speck of a dinghy in the vastness of the sea. Thanks guys! I think the result speaks for itself: a simple, elegant sailing shot.

Island Paradise

New Caledonia Postcard

Traditional Outrigger Canoe on the Isle of Pines. Canon 5D Mark II camera and Canon 24-105mm f4L IS USM lens. Exposure Details: 1/200 second @ f10 ISO 200.

Many parts of New Caledonia are just about as classicly ‘paradisical’ as it can get going by typical western conception. The landscapes, the sea and the weather allow an incredible lifestyle if you so choose. Phenomenal diving, snorkelling and fishing are provided by the barrier reef that encloses Grand Terre (the main island) in the world’s largest lagoon. Consistent trade winds keep the climate moderate and provides for the thousands of kite surfers that visit. Sailing, trekking, horse-riding, canyoning and four wheel driving are other popular activities. Yet if you travel enough you come to realise that -as a local poet once said of New Caledonia- ‘paradise exists nowhere but in man’s imagination’. The society here is just as engulfed in problems as any other. National identity, racism, immigration, economic development, mining, a continuing clash of civilisations (Melanesian and European) are key areas of conflict. Sound familiar? It does for just about any place I can think of in one way or another.

These are themes I’d like to explore with photography here, yet an understanding of local issues has only just started to crystalise for me, and my visa is about to expire! So today I’m posting a postcard perfect picture of paradise I took that was published in last week’s ‘New Caledonia Weekly’, the only English language magazine here. I don’t believe the photo is deceitful of reality, I believe New Caledonia is in fact paradise, a natural paradise, but not a human one. The text that accompanied the photo in the magazine is below.

“It was the second of January and we were still recovering from new year’s eve on the idyllic Isle of Pines. We arranged to be taken on a voyage by pirogue (a traditional outrigger canoe). It poured rain early in the morning, leaving us with a dim prognostic for the voyage. Fortunately the rain eased off, but a thick blanket of cloud meant the incredible Baie d’Upi did not quite lend itself to photography. That was at least until we were dropped off at our destination and the sky cleared, revealing all the glorious colours the Isle Pines is renowned for. I was able to snap this postcard perfect memory just as our noble captain, Theodore, prepared to return to Baie St Joseph. As for us, we turned to the forest and set out for the elusive Piscine Naturelle.”

Thanks for reading, next week I’m off to Vanuatu for a couple of weeks and then back to Australia to arrange a visa. Plenty of good posts coming up including some landscapes here and some shots from the soccer World Cup Trophy Tour that I covered on Tuesday.


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