Posts Tagged 'Argentina'

Alone with a giant: Iguazu Falls

A spray-soaked tourist in a plastic rain poncho gawks at the might even of one of Iguazu's lesser falls, Brazil. 5D Mark II camera and Canon 24-105mm f4L IS USM lens. Exposure Details: 1/1250 seconds @ f7.1 ISO 320.

It’s hard to sum up Iguazu Falls in words or pictures though I’m sure the 200,000 visitors that pour through the ticket gates every year do their best in a million different formats. For those who don’t know, Iguazu Falls is a gargantuan waterfall complex where actually 275 discrete falls plunge the entire Iguazu river 84 metres off a plateau of hard volcanic rock. The falls are the widest on earth, have the 2nd highest average flow in the world (behind Niagara) and divide the three nations of Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay.

My experience there was typical, I flew in from Rio de Janeiro (on my way to Paraguay), landed on the Brazilian side of the border and initially got a little unsettled gawking from my bus window at just how close the airport was to the National Park and the number of conspicuous hotels built in and around it. Though unsettled I was not surprised and knew if I was going to check out this epic watercourse I would have to embrace my inner tourist and go with the flow.

Once there you have two options of viewing the falls, the Brazilian side or the Argentinian. Many people will tell you (and not just the locals for whom it is an object of national pride) not to bother with the Brazilian side as the Argentinian is a far superior viewing experience. I’d agree there is far more to see from the Argentinian side but would recommend also visiting the Brazilian side, though with the caveat that you visit this side first so that then visiting the Argentinian side only ramps up the awesomeness. The reverse I can see may be a let down.

Inevitably I was herded around like a head of cattle and parted with cash all too easily like in any world renowned tourist trap (click here for more on those), though at Iguazu I felt there was at least enough space to find some quiet moments by myself to appreciate the awesomeness of the place. And it was awesome. An endless array of mega-thundering towers of water plunge into an impenetrable foamy white abyss and blast you with a refreshing spray as untold trillions of tiny droplets wind around you glinting in the hot tropical sun. The entire national park seems to be set in a water world bursting at the seams, the forest barely managing to cling to the rock and survive the tide that flows in every possible way under, over and around it.

As usual however, my photographic inspiration followed an inverse function of the number of fellow tourists crowding into the same space and pointing their cameras over every guard rail at every occasion. The experience is something like kryptonite to photographers I think, the higher the concentration of squinting faces on LCD screens at arm’s length, the more intense the cringe. But I’ve long since learned you can’t fight it and even helped quite a few people out with their group shots and latest Facebook profile pics.

The shot above stood out to me because it portrayed the sense I had of the tourism development’s intrusion on the place despite the fact that it did very little to reduce the sense of power the Falls give in person. It was not one of the bigger falls or the most impressive places I visited, but reminded me of the quieter moments I had there. Amongst the ebb and flow of tourists clanging along the metallic walkways, one person can suddenly find themself alone with a giant, and the experience is worth it.

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Cheers guys and thanks for reading =D

Cam.

Argentina Rocks!

A rock climber takes on an epic pinnacle in the Argentine Andes near Bariloche. Vertical panorama stitch of 11 separate images using Photoshop CS4. Canon 5D Mark II camera and Canon 24-105mm f4L IS USM lens. Exposure Details for all 11 images: 1/250 second @ f13 ISO 320.

Hi guys, today’s post comes from a great three day trek I did to a mountain refuge called ‘Refugio Emilio Frey’ in the Nahuel Huapi National Park close to the southern Argentine city of Bariloche.

To get this shot my friend and I scrambled up a rocky ridge several hundred metres. We aimed for the highest non-technical point we could see and found a few keen climbers hell bent on conquering this incredible pinnacle of rock towering above Laguna Schmoll and the mountain refuge El Frey. Up until this point I’d been blown away by the views but was struggling with the harsh late morning light to make a nice photograph. Luckily the angle of the sunlight caught the pinnacle in a perfect rembrandt style, bringing out the warm orange tone of the rock while also providing the right angle for my polariser to make a deep blue from the sky in the background. My proximity to the rock meant I couldn’t capture the entire scene with my 24mm lens so I took a series of landscape framed shots stacked on top of each other and later stitched them together into this vertical panorama using photoshop CS4.

Later on that afternoon I met the climbers, exchanged emails and have since shown them the photographs, something I always do when I can.

Hope you enjoy and don’t forget I now have a facebook page which I’d be stoked if you went ahead and ‘liked’.

Cheers,

Cam.

Siesta Police in Argentina!

Snoozing cops ride the bus in Argentina. Canon 5D Mark II camera and Sigma 50mm f1.4 EX DG HSM lens. Exposure Details: 1/160 second @ f3.2 ISO 2500.

Hi guys here’s a quick post from my South American travels. This humorous photograph was taken on a public bus in Argentina.

Tongue tucked into the corner of my mouth and pulse racing I tiptoed to within two feet of my snoozing uniformed co-passengers. I had time to click over the shutter just once before the policeman stirred, opening his eyes directly at me. Biting my lip I feigned conversation with a bemused French tourist seated opposite. Fortunately my subject had not truly woken and I returned to my seat with a nervous grin. Catching cops snoozing in South America is fairly commonplace, but photographing them mid-siesta could potentially be a dicey proposition because it is illegal in some countries. And of course it may cost you a bit of baksheesh to keep you out of trouble.

Cheers for reading and expect South American photo postings to start rolling in thick and fast, I have a raft of great shots to put up!

Cam.

24 Hours on the Road in South America

Neuquén Desert

A front seat view of the Argentine desert. Canon 5D Mark II camera and Canon 24-105mm f4L IS USM lens. Exposure Details: 1/200 seconds @ f10 ISO 400.

Beaten up Chevrolets, Fords and Citroens rumble past the bus window endlessly in the fading light. Occasionally a petrol station hovers past like a glowing space ship. Teams of stocky silhouetted gauchos load barrels onto square vehicles and a cloaked figure warms his hands by a fire under a highway bridge. The monotonous Argentine Pampas glides by in a dark blur watched over by grain silos standing as sentinels against the horizon. The bus sways and I am lulled to sleep knowing that 24 hours on the road in South America lie ahead.

I am awoken by a dry heat and hypnotised by a fine sea of dust dancing weightlessly in and out of narrow shafts of light piercing my window. Drawing the curtain back whips the dust into a million vortices and my attention shifts to a vast desert landscape. The arid province of Neuquén rolls by with cartoon-esque white puffs of cloud hanging in the sky like a clichéd spaghetti western. They drift aimlessly like survivors who managed to scrape through the jagged claws of the Andes Mountains rising to the west. I was headed to San Carlos de Bariloche, a place famous for it’s mountains, lakes and forests. I had not considered this would mean driving through an epic rain shadow and was silently awed by my unexpected vista.

Leaving my seat for a cup of water I noticed the front of the second level of the bus was vacant. In no time I settled into one of the cosy ‘semi-bed’ front seats, camera in hand, put my feet up and enjoyed the show. Click =D

Republica de la Boca!

Public basketball/soccer court in Boca, Buenos Aires. Canon 5D Mark II camera and Canon 24-105mm f4L IS USM lens. Exposure Details: 1/320 seconds @ f5 ISO 400.

Bienvenidos a Buenos Aires! After 4 years away from the continent I’ve finally arrived back in South America. For the past 5 days I’ve been exploring the chaotic urban labyrinth of Buenos Aires that 13.5 million Argentinians call home. I arrived straight from the relative tranquility of spacious, leafy Melbourne to this South American concrete jungle and it has been a big shock but awesome on all fronts. I’ve been lucky enough to stay with two awesome hosts over that time by the name of Sandra and Ignacio (also a photographer, check out his blog) who have both showed me a stash of hidden gems in this intense mega-city. I have only a small amount of time before I have to haul arse over to the bus station and find myself a seat destined for Córdoba so I’ll just quickly run through the highlights so far:

  • Huge Argentine eats in Plaza Serrano and Plaza de Armenia.
  • Partying till 7am in a club with free entry and free drinks all night courtesy of the DJ Manu and Juli! (You know who you are and thanks to Carla and Martin for putting me in touch!)
  • Watching Gauchos (Argentine cowboys) practising there stuff in an artist market in the suburb of Matadero.
  • Eating Argentine Asado (bbq).
  • Playing a game of football (soccer) with some friends in which I scored 2 goals, a relief after shitting myself that I wouldn’t be able to match it with the chosen ones of the sport.
  • Monday night live afro-percussion music and after party (even mondays go off here!)
  • Strolling through BA’s downtown hustle, and well known districts of San Telmo and La Boca.

I took this photo yesterday in the touristic but working class district: La Boca, from whence the famous Boca Juniors (the Collingwood of Argentina) come from. In some areas it’s a very gritty suburb but these kids were chill as and happy to have me hanging out taking photos while they played some basketball.

Stay tuned, there’s more to come soon. And don’t forget that you can subscribe to this blog via email (see the link in the right hand panel) or subscribe via RSS.

Cheers,

Cam.


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